Dash is all stock with an old Don Garlits signature tach on the column, which doesn't work, but it's the genuine article.
The seat is the original '57 seat with real 60's-era hand-stiched black tuck & roll upholstery job. It's not pressed pleats.
Also seen in this picture is the clutch pedal, which is still in the car from when it ran a stick. There's still a hole in the floor for the shifter under the carpet from when it ran the stick.
If somebody wants to put a 4-speed back in this car, I may have one I'd consider selling. It's a freshly rebuilt Muncie 4-speed. Hurst makes a special shifter for the '57 Chevy so the stick won't contact the seat. I don't have one.
The car was originally an automatic from the factory; the clutch was added with factory parts and looks like OEM.
The engine has 60's era Micky Thompson valve covers with breathers. This is a 327 block that originally had a breather tube in the intake.
To run in D-class, the engine has a 283 steel crank which de-strokes it to 301 cubic inches. This is the same crank and block combination GM came out with for the '69 Z28, except they called it a 302.
The heads are double-hump angle plug style, with roller rockers under the valve covers. Carburetor is a Holley 750 double pumper. Mallory distributor.
There is a cool can in the lower left, which is functional.
Another view to show the stance from the front.
Typical of most Chevy Tri-5 gassers, it runs no bumper to keep the front end as light as possible.
There is a slight amount of age-cracking around the corners of the hood scoop, and I found one tiny rust spot under the car in the passenger side rear floor pan, which is the only rust I could find anywhere on the whole car. It's very small, but I want to make sure I mention it.
The steel hood is cut out the full dimension of the scoop to allow outside air to the velocity stack.
This is a good looking '57 Chevy from any angle. The sheet metal is solid and straight.
It has a slightly "nose up" attitude, but if somebody wants to make it sit higher in the nose, all it takes is blocks to space the axle off the springs, and some longer U-bolts.