Questions? If you would like specific info on any of these cars, contact me by phone or email:
I took this car in a trade and I am hard pressed to sell it because I LOVE hot rods. It's a 210 2-dr. sedan and the trim tag shows it was manufactured in L.A. It spent its life in CA and Oregon, until it made its way east around 2002. The records with the car show the Oregon owner had race work done on the engine in 1979 and that at one time it ran 2x4's. It was raced in D/Gas, has all its original factory sheet metal.
The I-beam is not a kit; it came from a '51 Chevy pickup and the installation is absolutely immaculate. The car goes down the road beautifully. It has a strong 301 (327 block with a 283 steel crank), Isky roller cam, roller rockers, original fenderwell headers, race-prepped Buick TH400, 5:13 Detroit Locker, the original roll bar, and the clutch pedal is still in it from when it ran a 4-speed. Paint is over 30 years old but still very presentable, a little thin where they buffed the lettering off. This is also a street-legal car; you can go nostalgia racing, drive it, or both.
I'm currently in the process of mounting the original rims back on, and having the headers ceramic coated.There are timing slips from Lions Drag strip that go with car. $28,500.
The I-beam is not a kit; it came from a '51 Chevy pickup and the installation is absolutely immaculate. The car goes down the road beautifully. It has a strong 301 (327 block with a 283 steel crank), Isky roller cam, roller rockers, original fenderwell headers, race-prepped Buick TH400, 5:13 Detroit Locker, the original roll bar, and the clutch pedal is still in it from when it ran a 4-speed. Paint is over 30 years old but still very presentable, a little thin where they buffed the lettering off. This is also a street-legal car; you can go nostalgia racing, drive it, or both.
I'm currently in the process of mounting the original rims back on, and having the headers ceramic coated.There are timing slips from Lions Drag strip that go with car. $28,500.
I found this truck in Indiana, after it had been brought there from Montana. This is a real solid western truck with a beautiful cab, doors, and solid fenders. The floors and cab corners are all original; it's hard to find an early F1 with this nice cab.
The seams in the front fenders show a little bit of rust, but nothing serious. All the fenders are really solid, and will need some dents taken out, but any rust repair on this truck will be extremely minimal.
It has a good grille and headlight pods, but needs the front pan repaired where it has some tears around the bumper holes. It's got a usable wood bed floor and tailgate, but the passenger side running board needs to be straightened.
It has a really nice, original uncut dashboard with all the factory pieces in perfect condition. It also has a factory heater and all the factory controls under the dash, which are usually missing. It has the floor shifted trans with the super-deep first gear that you practically never use.
It has a Merc flathead, which runs fine, and the carb and double-action fuel pump are all rebuilt. It also has 4 new wheel cylinders and new brake flex hoses. This is a solid, good running flathead-V8 truck. Tinker on it while you drive and take it as far as you can afford. $6500.
The seams in the front fenders show a little bit of rust, but nothing serious. All the fenders are really solid, and will need some dents taken out, but any rust repair on this truck will be extremely minimal.
It has a good grille and headlight pods, but needs the front pan repaired where it has some tears around the bumper holes. It's got a usable wood bed floor and tailgate, but the passenger side running board needs to be straightened.
It has a really nice, original uncut dashboard with all the factory pieces in perfect condition. It also has a factory heater and all the factory controls under the dash, which are usually missing. It has the floor shifted trans with the super-deep first gear that you practically never use.
It has a Merc flathead, which runs fine, and the carb and double-action fuel pump are all rebuilt. It also has 4 new wheel cylinders and new brake flex hoses. This is a solid, good running flathead-V8 truck. Tinker on it while you drive and take it as far as you can afford. $6500.
An original unrestored survivor with a solid never-rusted body, all straight with crummy old black paint; Tennessee car. When I got it, it had been sitting indoors since it was parked in 1962. It was somebody's old hot rod during the 50's, and it still has chrome junk on it to prove it...including the funky extra taillights below the stock ones. I have no idea why they are there. Somewhere along the line, this car got a later (1949?) 100 hp 8BA flathead to replace the stock 85 hp engine. We got it running very easily, and were dumfounded at how nice the engine sounds...it's whisper quiet, runs beautifully, and doesn't smoke. Brakes are now all redone with new wheel cylinders, brake lines, dual reservoir master cylinder, and we also replaced all the hoses, belts, wires, plugs, had the radiator boiled, rebuilt the carburetor and fuel pump, and the gas tank is sloshed and coated. We also installed a new dual exhaust system with Smitty mufflers and pencil tips...it sounds great. I had the generator all rebuilt and converted to 12V, and had a lot of rewiring done, and it now has 4 new wide whitewall radials. Needs a top. You can restore it or just drive it as a beater. A very solid, running and driving '40 convertible. Other than a top, there is nothing else to spend money on if you just want to drive it. $38,000
Jim Inglese, North Branford, CT Phone: 203-623-0659 Feel free to call me anytime before 9 pm Eastern time
My thing is mostly 1940 Fords and 1948-'52 Ford F1 pickups, but just about everything is of interest to me. I'm a hobbyist with extremely varied interests. I only buy solid, original, unmolested cars and trucks that I'd keep for myself. I don't have much of an interest in finished show quality cars. I like honest, original cars with nothing to hide.
Many of my cars are "survivors" ...solid unrestored cars and trucks dragged out of barns or storage facilites, usually not in in running condition when parked or retired. I always get them running and never sell vehicles that don't run. That's what I like to do...resurrect them and move them on. I search all over for the right candidates.
Many of my cars are "survivors" ...solid unrestored cars and trucks dragged out of barns or storage facilites, usually not in in running condition when parked or retired. I always get them running and never sell vehicles that don't run. That's what I like to do...resurrect them and move them on. I search all over for the right candidates.
My Cell : (203) 623-0659
This is an ORIGINAL unrestored car, The right person will flip over this car. As with any "survivor" car, its charm is it's originality. It's much too nice to restore.
It's been a major decision for me not to keep this car, but I've kept too many others already. I wish I could afford to keep every nice car I buy. Anyway, I classify this as a "keeper" quality car.
It still has its original Ford factory-installed mohair interior, which is in very nice original condition...including the rare flip-down opera seats in back. Somebody put dual exhaust on it somewhere along the line, which is the only departure from stock. It runs and sounds like an old moonshine car.
I don't know how many Opera Coupes were made, but this is the first original one I've ever owned. Everything works except the clock and interior light, and it has an original working heater (no radio). The paint is showing its age just a little, but it looks spectacular. This is a really lovely, straight, 1940 coupe that needs nothing but a new owner. It would be impossible to replace a car this original. Asking $32,500.
It's been a major decision for me not to keep this car, but I've kept too many others already. I wish I could afford to keep every nice car I buy. Anyway, I classify this as a "keeper" quality car.
It still has its original Ford factory-installed mohair interior, which is in very nice original condition...including the rare flip-down opera seats in back. Somebody put dual exhaust on it somewhere along the line, which is the only departure from stock. It runs and sounds like an old moonshine car.
I don't know how many Opera Coupes were made, but this is the first original one I've ever owned. Everything works except the clock and interior light, and it has an original working heater (no radio). The paint is showing its age just a little, but it looks spectacular. This is a really lovely, straight, 1940 coupe that needs nothing but a new owner. It would be impossible to replace a car this original. Asking $32,500.
You probably store your cars during the winter or let them sit for periods of time in the summer when it's humid. Humidity, dampness, and moisture are sometimes unavoidable, and they can create an awful mildew s smell...not to mention pitting the chrome on engine parts.
If you don't know where to get big ONE POUND moisture-absorbing desiccant bags for car interiors, it's something I sell through my real business. This may be just what you've been looking for...to have a look, click on this link:
If you don't know where to get big ONE POUND moisture-absorbing desiccant bags for car interiors, it's something I sell through my real business. This may be just what you've been looking for...to have a look, click on this link:
If you own any collector cars, here's something you may find very helpful:
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1957 Chevy ex- Gasser
1940 Ford DeLuxe Opera Coupe
1951 Ford F1 Pickup
Any cars that were not running for a long time always get fresh brake work and whatever else they need to become running and driving cars again. I only take them to the next level, which is to make them run and drive. If any major parts are missing, I locate those parts and either put them on or supply them to the new owner. Once a car or truck is running and relatively complete, that's where I like to stop. Then it's somebody else's turn, and they can take it to whatever level they want...or drive it the way it is.
Some of the cars I buy are already good drivers when I get them, and either way, I drive every car before I sell it. If it needs something, you will know what it needs. I try to eliminate any surprises.
I like fast cars and muscle cars, '65-'66 Mustangs, and hot rods...just as much as the '40 Fords and F1 trucks. I never know what I am going to get involved with next. Here's what I have for sale at the current time:
Some of the cars I buy are already good drivers when I get them, and either way, I drive every car before I sell it. If it needs something, you will know what it needs. I try to eliminate any surprises.
I like fast cars and muscle cars, '65-'66 Mustangs, and hot rods...just as much as the '40 Fords and F1 trucks. I never know what I am going to get involved with next. Here's what I have for sale at the current time:
1940 Ford DeLuxe Convertible
Solid, flathead-powered early-style hot rod with nice dual carb flathead, dropped axle, and exceptionally nice dash and instruments. This is a really straight car with a beautiful body. It has early Packard rims on the back, to push the wheels out closer to the fenders.
This car is done just like the '40 coupes that were converted to rods in the 40's and 50's; there is not much done to it. The only modifications on this car are a 4" dropped axle, tube-type shocks, Edmunds two-deuce intake, Packard rear rims, a 12 volt conversion with an alternator, and the battery is neatly recessed into the firewall. It still needs an interior, but it has a very nice original mohair seat, so there is no rush to finish the inside.
The engine starts every time and runs good; you can start driving this car while you work on it with no down-time. It has all new glass and seals waiting to go in, which must be installed. I do not have the time to do it.
This car has one very interesting and unusual feature...it has a '39 cab with the crankout windshield. There is a perfect crank-out mechanism in the car that needs to be installed, but it can be driven in the meantime without it. It also has a working cowl vent. You will have plenty of fresh air.
The body has been taken off the frame, and the frame was restored and shot with gray epoxy. The chassis has been completely gone over...suspension, new brake lines, gas line, and new exhaust system.
This car is done just like the '40 coupes that were converted to rods in the 40's and 50's; there is not much done to it. The only modifications on this car are a 4" dropped axle, tube-type shocks, Edmunds two-deuce intake, Packard rear rims, a 12 volt conversion with an alternator, and the battery is neatly recessed into the firewall. It still needs an interior, but it has a very nice original mohair seat, so there is no rush to finish the inside.
The engine starts every time and runs good; you can start driving this car while you work on it with no down-time. It has all new glass and seals waiting to go in, which must be installed. I do not have the time to do it.
This car has one very interesting and unusual feature...it has a '39 cab with the crankout windshield. There is a perfect crank-out mechanism in the car that needs to be installed, but it can be driven in the meantime without it. It also has a working cowl vent. You will have plenty of fresh air.
The body has been taken off the frame, and the frame was restored and shot with gray epoxy. The chassis has been completely gone over...suspension, new brake lines, gas line, and new exhaust system.
1940 Ford DeLuxe Coupe
This truck belongs to a friend of mine, and I can send more pictures. It's unbelievably nice; asking price is $32,000. Cost a LOT to build. A top shelf, professionally built, show-level vehicle throughout. Contact me for more pictures and details.
All the hard work is done on this car; just needs the glass installed, which is brand new in the box, with a new set of rubber window seals. All the original stainless trim also comes with the car, which was removed when it was shot with the epoxy primer. A set of bumper bracketsalso come with the car. It has its original floor and trunk pan, '40 Deluxe dash with original paint and working gauges, and the body is also in epoxy primer; there are no hidden surprises; there's no rust to fix anywhere except a small spot at bottom on left front fender. There are no disappointments on this car. $26,500 buys a straight, rock solid '40 Ford Coupe. You may find a cheaper one, but you will never find a better one.
This is a private, non-commercial site
1955 Ford F100 Pickup